Matbaren

Mathias Dahlgren

http://www.mdghs.com

Reviews and related sites

Matbaren - Stockholm Food Stories

Review analysis
food   menu  

One of Stockholm’s best restaurants is the one Michelin starred restaurant at Grand Hotel run by Mathias Dahlgren, Matbaren.

A Michelin starred restaurant located in the same building as the most exclusive hotel, Grand Hôtel, in Stockholm.

Mathias Dahlgren has a long history of running successful restaurants in Stockholm, starting with the legendary Bon Loc, which he ran between 1996 and 2005 and was rewarded one Michelin star.

The menu is not classical fine dining with a set course menu, instead there are mid-sized dishes that you order one by one.

The steamed buns are a classic dish on the menu and also one of my favorites, even though it varies a bit from time to time exactly what they consist of.

Mathias Dahlgren - Matbaren - andershusa

Review analysis
food   menu   value   desserts  

Mathias Dahlgren – Matbaren is his more casual and less pretentious food bar, but it has still been awarded one Michelin star by the French guide.

Mathias Dahlgren – Matsalen has two-Michelin-stars and is a more classic fine dining restaurant, where you typically get a full tasting menu.

In a time when it seems to be a trend even for fine dining restaurants to lower their à la carte prices, the food bar of Mathias Dahlgren is lagging behind.

The white asparagus was a decent dish, but the real delicacy were the Jerusalem artichokes with salted lemon and browned butter.

The desserts were reason alone to return to Mathias Dahlgren – Matbaren again.

Matbaren – Mathias Dahlgren

Mathias Dahlgren restaurant review 2010 October Stockholm ...

Review analysis
staff   ambience   drinks   food   desserts  

Next was a spicy broth of king crab, with fried onions and cod roe, the broth enlivened by a little lime.

The next dish of potatoes and "soil" was served with whitefish roe, sour cream and lemon.

The effect is a slightly less rich livery taste but one that I found very enjoyable, while the liquorice, which made me nervous when it was announced, was fortunately well controlled; there was a clever use of a little vinegar to offset the richness of the foie gras, resulting in a dish with lovely taste balance (the vinegar is apparently aged in the kitchen).

When I asked about this I was told that the chef grew up in a northern part of Sweden noted for very strong pickles, and that this high level of sourness was intentional; perhaps so, but I think for most people it will not work, as this degree of sourness is simply unpalatable (17/20 overall).

This was followed by a sloe berry dish, with ice cream and sorbet of sloe berry with sloe berry seeds, which taste a little of bitter almonds; this worked quite well (17/20).

Welcome to Matbaren | Grand Hôtel

Enjoy one or more medium-sized dishes and accompanying wines by the glass, either served at a table or up at our large bar counter.

Feel free to stop by – we always keep a few seats available at the bar.

Tel. +46 8 679 35 84 We accept reservations by telephone or email from Monday to Friday, 8am - 6pm.

Reservations online can be made one calender month ahead.

Matbaren in Stockholm, Sweden - Lonely Planet

One of celebrity chef Mathias Dahlgren's restaurants at the Grand Hôtel (the other is Rutabaga), the bistro-style Matbaren (‘Food Bar’) boasts a Michelin star and an inventive menu of seasonal ingredients.

The food is elaborately gorgeous – matjes herring arranged like a still-life, 'Scandinavian sashimi', architectural desserts almost too pretty to eat – but the place never feels overly formal.

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